CHÂTEAU DE PANIGON 2005

I tasted this wine at the iYellow Bordeaux after work party. They held the event at Eight Wine Bar. I’ve been a couple of times before and enjoyed it. They had 5 wines for the tasting. For me, a good Bordeaux is a wine that has many levels of complexity. They are not flat wines. They can best be appreciated without decanting, and you can experience the levels of complexity without food. They evolve in the glass. They can often build in the mouth. This is the experience I look for! This was the best wine of the evening!

The wine is a combination of Cab Sauv and Merlot. 2005 was a great year for Bordeaux. Even average wineries were turning out above average wines for this year! This wine was dark in color with a red berry nose and some earthy notes coming through. On the mid pallet this wine is dominated by the cab but not in a fruit forward California style. It has some nice acidity and a long finish. The tannins build in the mouth leaving a nice chalky pallet coating dryness. This is a lovely complex wine. I would give it a solid 90. For the money this wine is a deal! Grab some while there are ANY left in Ontario of the 2005 vintage!

From the LCBO Web site:
CHÂTEAU DE PANIGON 2005 VINTAGES 230367 | 750 mL bottle Price: $ 16.95
Wine, Red Wine 12.4% Alcohol/Vol. Sugar Content : XD

Made in: Bordeaux, France By: Dwl France
Release Date: Aug 20, 2011

Tasting Note
A wonderful value from a great Bordeaux vintage. Ruby coloured in the glass with inviting notes of cassis, cedar, plum, minerality and florals on the nose. The palate is dry and medium bodied with a crisp acidity, a good tannic hold and a ripe fruit core. Well balanced; the fruit, cedar, herbs and spice all play beautifully. There is a lovely earthy, cassis focus. Marvelous. Enjoy this with grilled steak, or aged hard smoked cheeses. (VINTAGES panel, Oct. 2010)

Check LCBO stock
Copyright John Galea for CanadianWineGuy.com

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2008 Hillebrand Carlton Vineyard Merlot

Looking for a wine last night to pair with good ol’ fashion spaghetti and noticed I had two of these in the cellar. Showcase is Hillebrand’s premiere wine label and this single vineyard comes from older Merlot vines on their Carlton vineyard in Niagara on the Lake. 2008 by most measures was a wet summer with an unusually warm harvest season, this made for more challenging growing conditions that in the end yielded interesting variation throughout the region. This Merlot benefited from being in one of the warmest areas in all of Niagara and in the end the yields were consistent to previous years.

Fast tasting summary:

Colour: Nice dark and deep red.
Nose: Plum, dirt (yup, dirt like you ate as a child), licorice.
First sip: Firm but not overwhelming tannins, red fruit (think tree, plums & cherries), good finish.
Further into the wine: The red berries come out, blackberry and red currants, oak is gentle and not overwhelming, tannins remain firm but still present, earthiness and spices all but disappeared.

Thoughts: Impressed with this wine, as my expectations were non-existent (I literally grabbed it blind). $38 is the price to pay for an old-vines single vineyard, and while on the higher side the quality is here and the wine has potential to get stronger with cellaring. I have a second bottle in the cellar and I am quite pleased to know it will be there in a year or two. Cellaring potential is 2 to 5 years, though you will be pleased with the wine today.

CWG Subjective Rating is 87 out of 100.

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Cellaring Zinfandels

Managing a wine cellar takes some learning. The first thing to do when starting to setup a cellar is figuring out how you are going to capture the data. Capturing data at the time of purchase will save you a ton of time later on. The LCBO often include lots of detail about the wine, a reviewers notes etc. Be sure and save this somewhere. It will come in handy.

First and foremost … remember, not all wine is made to be kept. Some are brewed 🙂 in a drink now style. The LCBO Vintages documents show this by a legend that shows a wine bottle standing up. A wine bottle laying down means it is potentially an aging wine. Often a reviewer’s notes will also include a recommendation on when to drink it. How long to keep it. Etc. Different grape varieties age differently. Fruit forward wines like Californian Merlots, and Zinfs will simply lose their lively fruit dominant flavors as it ages. A wine as it ages will go along a curve. It will get better for a period of time, peak, and then start to fall off. Drink a wine past its peak and the fruit flavors will disappear. Wait way too long and you’ve got something that tastes a whole lot more like vermouth than wine; or vinegar.

I recently reviewed a 2002 Zinfandel I had in my cellar for a while. The wine was good but lacking in some of the nice fruit that it had when it was youthful leaving me to ponder … did I wait too long? Oh no … I was too patient? Are you kidding? Me? How is that even possible?

I heard a funny one that said do you know when a wine is ready to drink? When you can’t wait any longer … Ok so I’m no comic 🙂 Moving on …

Zinfandel’s in California (where most come from) are more often than not field blends. That means inter-mingled within the field are other grape varieties including carignan, petite sirah, cab sauv etc. What this means is the wine can vary significantly year to year and thus vintage charts can be useful. If you ever want to try what 100% Zinfandel tastes like try an Italian Primitivo. Sometimes Zinfs will have a jammy strawberry flavor. If you wonder where that comes from it is from the Petite Sirah. Try something like La Cetto to see this in spades! And if the only kind of Zinfandel you are used to is the pinky one then you have no idea what I am talking about!

I belong to the Society for America Wines and have attended a couple Zinf events. The cellar master there is Chris Bee. Chris is very knowledgeable on Zinfs. So I reached out to him, as well as Mr CWG, to pick their brains on cellaring of Zinfs and thought I would pass along their thoughts and the factors that affect aging of Zinfs.

  • “I look at Zinfandel as I do Pinot Noir as far as when to drink. Most are at their best at six years after the vintage date. True there are many top of the line (expensive) wines that will live on for another ten years plus but then it becomes a matter of taste.”
  • Is the bottle 100% zinfandel or a blend of zinfandel,carignan,petite sirah etc
  • The winery and vineyard location.
  • the vintage year.
  • French vs. American oak.
  • I find that Lodi and Mendocino are the shortest lived appellations followed by El Dorado and Sierra Foothills. They are usually priced lower to reflect this.
  • Late Harvest wines with <15% alc and over 2%rs can live well beyond the 6 years but the over 15% and under 2%rs tend to self-destruct in under five years. They tend to take on pruney overripe notes.
  • I have been drinking up some of my older vintages and the better producers have shown well with their top of the line offerings. I (Chris) am currently drinking 1992 Ridge Geyserville which is at its peak. The 1992 Sonoma, half the price, was over the hill but alive. The Howell Mountain was exceptional but is no longer made as the vines were budded over to Cab. A Sausalito Canyon 1991 was clearly over the hill and pruney.
  • Sadly Chris shared “Back in the early 90’s I bought too much wine, hence the clear out now.” You need to drink more Chris. I bet you can find a volunteer or two 🙂
  • Alderbrook is a good but not outstanding zinfandel producer and their wines are best drunk within six years from the vintage date 2002 would translate to 2008 or three years ago. Often their zinfandel is 100% zinfandel which tends to limit the ageing potential.

There you have it. So what I discovered was my Alderbrook was good but the fruit had totally faded. Not so far as to be a “bad wine” but far enough to have been past its peak!

If you cellar, capture info at time of purchase, track it. And most of all DRINK IT! 🙂
Copyright John Galea for CanadianWineGuy.com

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2008 Thirty Bench Small Lot Cabernet Franc

One of the things I have been toying with is having long form and short form reviews based on my time availability. For long time readers you know I can be sporadic with reviewing, most of the time this is not for lack of drinking (snicker) but due to lack of time to properly build a review that fits with my style. As such today I am going to introduce the Canadian Wine Guy short form review. We will start with this Thirty Bench offering priced at $40 a bottle.

Colour: Deep purple with hints of rust on the edges
Nose: Black Cherry & Tobacco
First sip: Forward on the tongue, blackcurrant, more tobacco
Further into the wine: Still forward on the tongue, short finish. Fruit becomes muted while spices and smokiness is distinctive.

Thoughts: Torn between this wine is too young or it is blunted; the fruit is muted because of the heaviness of the spice and oak; tannins while firm are entirely forward in the mouth and leave a short finish; enjoyable but overpriced; think about another 2-3 years of cellaring as I will be doing with the second bottle in the cellar.

CWG Subjective Rating: 85 out of 100

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2010 Greenlane Pinot Gris-Riesling

2011 may go down as the summer of Pinot Gris in Niagara. All the vogue or all the rage some may say, but truth be told I am not sure why the region is pushing their Pinot Gris offerings as much as they do. Yes it is an easy, light, refreshing summer wine, but if you look at the Canadian calendar you will surely see (don’t call me Shirley!) that there are not a lot of Canadian summer months; at least at last check. So why the marketing blitz and the constant “Hey look at my Pinot Gris”? I honestly do not know, but I am truly hoping next year sees a sparkling or chardonnay agenda for Niagara’s producers.

As for drinking this Greenlane Estate Winery’s offer, it was opened mostly due to chance. I put it in our regular fridge a few days back as a ‘just in case’ we wanted to sit on the deck after work, forgetting that the sun is going into hiding behind skyscrapers around 18:00 nightly these days and the desire for white white dropping as fast as the sunshine. Fast forward a few days and we are having a spectacular autumn summer in Toronto, so excuses had to be made to drink wine on the terrace and the only white cold and ready to pretend it was still summer was this blend. For those that missed it, we actually reviewed a Greenlane wine recently, so my apologies for going back to the well so soon. So, despite its cold wet white taste, what did it taste like, let’s get into it!

A very pale, almost non-existent, colour is the first thing you will notice. An almost ‘pretend it is water in your glass at work’ clear. The nose will give you subtle hints of pear with floral undertones, but nothing will jump out at you. The first few sips will put forward a crisp clean wine, served too cold you will miss the fruit and the acidity will be muted. Allow it to warm up from the cold and you will open a wine with more structure and character. Citrus fruits and honey are the main flavours to come to mind and a longer than expected finish does in fact show a wine with more to it than the first few sips. Good acidity, good mouth feel, balanced from start to finish and a great price of $16.95 make this a wine worth stopping by the winery for.

The CWG Subjective Rating is 86 out of 100.

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ALDERBROOK OLD VINE ZINFANDEL 2002 Dry Creek Valley

I’ve had this one in the cellar since 2008 so figured it was time to give it a try. On the nose are some nice dark berries and a hint of alcohol. On the mid pallet are some lovely dark berries to match the bouquet. Additional bottle aging has smoothed this wine into an elegant well made zinf. Some of the pronounced blueberry flavors have faded but the wine still has the dusty tannins that build very nicely in the mouth (you only experience this if you are sipping the wine without food). The finish is on the milder side of medium with some acidity to round out the experience. Alcohol is still noticeable, mostly on the finish and there are still some nice oak flavors to be had as well. I would give this a 90.

When you get food and wine pairing right it is a little peice of heaven. Think (the movie) Ratatouille! Unfortunately when you get it wrong they fight. Maltese baked macaroni was on the menu. This is a simple meal dominated by tomato sauce. Unfortunately the acidity in the wine and the acidity in the tomato sauce did not get along well leading to a bitterness in the mouth that was not there when sipping the wine. So in this case, I got the pairing wrong 🙁 Oh well a lesson …

From the LCBO web site:
ALDERBROOK OLD VINE ZINFANDEL 2002 Dry Creek Valley TASTING NOTE: This is great Zin filled with personality. Showcases the briary brambly wild blackberry and blueberry flavors spices and dusty tannins this appellation is famous for. Finishes dry and smooth. Beautiful and compelling now. Score – 91. (Steve Heimoff Wine Enthusiast March 2005) 603696 $26.95 Featured 11/10/2007

From Winecurrent.com:
14.5% alcohol Displaying understated elegance and finesse the subtle aromas are well-ripened forest fruit pepper and spice. Integrated tannins refined acidity and fine dark fruit flavours contribute to an overall sense of balance. Nuances of spice and dark chocolate garnish the long gentle finish. A treat for the senses. (Susan Desjardins) (603696) $23.95 Rating 4/5 from Winecurrent

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2006 Kacaba Meritage

This was the third of the wines I tasted on my visit to the winery.

Dark in color with lots of dark fruits on the nose. On the mid pallet are some nice dark fruit rich flavors. The cab sauv and franc are dominant in the mix. The merlot is imperceptible to my tastes. On the finish the wine is medium in length with tannins in check nicely with some oak present. This is a nice wine and a good bargain for $16.95. It’s actually in the LCBO! Check LCBO stock. I would give it an 88-89. Pair it with steak, lamb or other hearty meals!

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Beautiful night

I was away all last week, executive retreat followed by family events. No excuse yet still no blog.

Despite all this I think I am up to 14 unique wines drank over that time so reviews will filter down as time allows. Till then I am wishing all good sipping, exactly what I am enjoying this evening in Toronto with our fabulous last kick at great weather (sipping a Chateau des Charmes 2007 Paul Bosc Vineyard Chardonnay)

Enjoy.

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LCBO Blogger contest

As you may have heard the LCBO are running a blogger contest. I’ve submitted one of my write ups from my trip to Prince Edward county. Stop on by and vote for me if you feel so inclined!

My trip to Prince Edward County

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Kacaba 2008 Cab Franc

Cab Franc for me is a signature grape for Niagara. They can do it very well. They can also do it very badly. Cab Franc in France is more often than not heavily blended. In Niagara as well as other places they make 100% Cab Franc. The benefit is that you can tell exactly what flavors come from the various grapes in a blend when you get familiar with them on their own!

This was my first visit to Kacaba winery and the second of three I tasted during my visit. The first was the Pinot Noir.

Cab Francs from Niagara can be big tannic monsters. I have often heard that you should not even consider drinking one before a min of 5 years. Taming of these brutes is the challenge posed to the winemaker.

This wine is dark in color. On the nose are lots of dark berries but not a strong or overwhelming bouquet. On the mid pallet dark berries come through. Some ripe cherries, a hint of mocha/cofee, and some oak. On the finish this wine is a smooth well made Cab Franc. I was shocked how approachable this wine is right now. Tannins are well in check. Little to no bitterness. Oak and alcohol are under control. Yet the varietal flavors expected in a Cab Franc are there, just well balanced and smooth. The staff member was telling me the 2009 is one of those big tannic monsters. Not ready to be touched yet.

This wine (the 2008) should hold up well to a good steak or lamb. I am not sure this is one that will keep a long time. I would give it a solid 89. It’s not in the LCBO. At the winery you can grab it for $18.95 which is a good deal.

Kacaba Winery

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2008 Kacaba Pinot Noir

I first tasted the Kacaba wines at a tasting event at the Brickworks and was impressed. I was down in Niagara this past weekend doing some mountain biking in Short Hills Provincial park so I made a point of stopping in at Kacaba. It was quite busy at all the wineries this weekend. I walked in looking a little rough coming off of a mountain bike, and in spite of this found the staff at Kacaba VERY attentive, approachable and knowledgeable. Hats off to them!

On pouring this wine it is the typical light garnet color for a pinot noir. On the nose this is a clean pinot noir with none of the traditional earthy notes coming through. Instead there are some lovely ripe cherries that dominate the bouquet. On the mid pallet this wine is a very well made smooth Pinot. Again ripe cherries, some rustic flavors but all in all a smooth well made pinot. If your looking for a boisterous pinot, this one won’t be to your liking. On the finish the wine has lovely chaulky dry tannins that build as you continue to drink the wine. This can only be experienced if your enjoying the wine without food. Give a bit of time in between sips and you will experience this additional layer of complexity of the wine. This is however, a VERY food friendly wine. We paired it with a prime rib and it went VERY well. I would give this wine a solid 90. Given Pinot’s are often more expensive the price point on this wine $22.95 is a good deal. I can’t imagine this will last a long time, I wouldn’t buy too many. But given you can’t get this at the LCBO, a trip to the winery is in order. A crying shame isn’t it! Well done Kacaba!

Kacaba Winery

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Hidden Bench Fall Release Event

Fast post as it is via mobile phone.

Great event, with owner, winemaker and front of house helping us run through the 8 wines on this release.

Highlights:
The wine (yes this is ‘copping out’) and great food pairings, very nice to have the intimate touch most other wine clubs ignore.

-In all seriousness look at the 2008 Felseck Chardonnay to be sold out fast as it is outrageously good. A Chardonnay lovers chardonnay it was brilliant.

-The 2010 Viognier is the winemaker’s star right now, it has great potential with low availability.

– The 2009 Estate Pinot Noir has good potential and will sell out quickly. If you are a Pinot fan, 2009 will be a great year and Hidden Bench Pinot’s are tremendous, may want to stop by and grab 1 or 10.

– The 2008 Locust Lane Pinot Noir is a big wine and may turn out to be the best of the eight.

Great day all around!

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Saturday Niagara and an Interesting Link

We are off to Niagara for an event by one of our wine clubs (Hidden Bench today), so maybe a picture and a write up later (if I can manage both!). In the meantime, here is an interesting link: a good friend has quit his job and motorcycling the Americas (all of it!) and it is pretty impressive: Greg’s Motorcycle Adventure. I have added to the links on this page in case you want to check back periodically on the ‘crazy’ man’s travels. Good luck Greg!

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2009 Quinto do Crasto Douro

Another one of the wines we had at Salt Wine Bar a few weeks back, this wine left a much poorer impression on me. Quinto do Crasto is a large Portuguese producer located on the Douro River. Well known for their ports and red table wines, the winery has had some solid wines in the past. As this was a short outing, so too will be the write up.

A dark, deep red colour presented itself in my glass; it was not to be the last of the stark notes on this wine. With blackberry and cinnamon on the nose and the colour of the wine gods I was hoping this Tinta Roriz blend was going to hit it out of the park. Sadly the first few sips were muted, almost dull. The tannins, while firmly in your mouth, were just overwhelming and not enjoyable. The oak is distinctly present, almost as if it was trying to hide poor fruit. Overall this was a medium-full bodied young wine that was a distinctive miss or the hit-or-miss scale. Sadly it failed to live up to the price point that Salt charges for it. If you are looking for the wine, the going price appears to be ~$14-16 a bottle through online retailers. For the wineries tasting notes click here.

The CWG Subjective Rating is 81 out of 100.

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Interesting New Link

For those that know me, know I love to cook as well as drink wine. For the longest time I had a link up for Erika Strum’s mostly foodie blog. Well times change and Erika has moved on to a Wine Enthusiast project. I updated the link to her blog on the site, but see this link to see a new buying guide from the creative minds over that way.

Email me with feedback and I will pass it on, or better yet email them directly!

Enjoy

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2010 Calamus Pinot Gris

If you are looking for 3100 Glen Road in Jordan, take your time and try not to think about roads changing names or bending, all of this may lead you to not making it to Calamus Estate Winery. If it was possible for civic planners to hide an address, or at least disguise it, the folks who put together the road system in and around the vineyard almost succeeded. Nestled beside the Ball’s Falls Conservation area (yes there is a joke in there somewhere) the scenery alone is worth the drive up to taste one of Niagara’s little wineries.

Derek Saunders and his wife Pat Latin started Calamus in 1999 with their purchase of 14 acres, since that time they have followed their own path. With an interesting name (Calamus means arrow or some may also say ‘reed pen’) and an onsite observatory this is not a winery run by a large company. Having met both in person and taken time out to hear their story and their passion, I can honestly say that the vineyard is on good footing as well as direction. But what about their wine? Let’s move on to the tasting.

Pinot Gris, as per the owners, is Calamus’ signature wine and the 2010 we had was suggested with pride. Its pale straw like colour was accompanied by gentle citrus notes. A few swirls and the citrus fruits are in your nostrils and waiting to jump out at you. But funny enough they do not overwhelm on the first few sips. A good even acidity follows the lime and grapefruit and the wine shows an even balance. The more we got into the wine the more we noticed peach and softness the first few sips did not deliver. Light mineral notes seep into your mouth and we started to notice a tad bit of floral notes. For a Pinot Gris we were pleasantly surprised and can say that for the price point ($17.20) it is clear why Pat and Derek are fond of this wine. If you are looking for a gentle start to your dinner party or a wine to sip and enjoy the last of summer you will not go wrong with this wine.

The CWG Subjective Rating is 87 out of 100.

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San Diego Traveler Report

After a week away here are a few snippets on the trip, including restaurant and hotel notes. Will catch up on wine reviews over the next day or so.

Red Pearl Restaurant (Gaslamp)
In the middle of the Gaslamp district this Asian fusion restaurant stands out from the steak and seafood joints that accompany almost every corner of downtown. Fusion is not for everyone and if you enjoy spicy twists then this may be the restaurant for you. Neither touristy nor pretentious for that matter, the Red Pearl has a deep selection of house cocktails and spirits. The menu itself is split into small and large, both of which are easy to share.

The Good: The mango fried rice is a pleasant surprise with sweet undertones. The house cocktails are full of flavor, even if they are not on the ‘strong’ side. The chili prawns may be some of the best spicy/sweet prawns I have the world over. Service was the perfect balance of helpful without being over bearing.

The So-so: The dumplings (pot stickers) were the lowlight, but edible none the less. Too meaty and on the light side of flavor, steer clear as the rest of the menu is on the solid side.

Cowboy Star Restaurant & Butcher Shop (Gaslamp)
This restaurant is on the higher end of the scale for downtown San Diego. Do not let the western motif fool you; this is a high end steak house that takes pride in all aspects of the dining experience. Immaculate tables compliment the detailed staff. The menu is broad enough to not corner you into steak, but make no bones about it, this is a steakhouse.

The food was excellent; the wine selection was diverse and allowed for both small and big budget selections. Desert appeared to be delicious, but as normal I prefer my calories to be in the form of red wine. Overall this restaurant will impress your clients, out of town guests or the foodie friend who is willing to go mainstream with a ‘steak house’.

Top of the Hyatt (Gaslamp)
A drink stop only (which is really how the Hyatt markets this top of the sky lounge) at one of the best views of San Diego Bay/Harbour, this stop features overstated wood and trim.

The Top of the Hyatt seems to be torn between hip, cool lounge and old-man parlour motif. If you are looking for a good view and standard cocktails, this is a must, the US Navy ships, helicopters and every day run of the mill million dollar yachts dot the skyline as you sip your drink. Matching the wealthy harbor equipment are the prices, which go hand in hand with the elevation. If you are not use to Manhattan or Toronto cocktail prices, do not take the ride up to the ‘top’ of the Manchester Hyatt as your blood pressure may also rise to the occasion.

All that said, the view more than compensates for the prices and like most major metropolises around the world, it is always worthwhile climbing to the top to have a good view of the sprawl beneath.

Influx Café (Little Italy)
We decided to not go to my regular Caffe Italia on India St. in Little Italy and to try out this ‘newish’ java shop. Cafés were excellent, staff has hip and trendy (maybe a tad ironic), the wifi was free and the oatmeal very good. Worth the morning stroll to sit in the sun and sip your caffeine fix on a leisurely morning.

Buon Appetito (Little Italy)
I took a group of 8 to this Little Italy mainstay. As per normal the food was excellent, the staff helpful and knowledgeable and the wine selection outstanding. If you are looking for a good classic Italian meal while out and about in San Diego, you cannot go wrong with Buon Appetito, not to mention the pricing is fair if not an almost bargain for the quality.

Phil’s BBQ (I-5 & I-8)
I took a group of 7 to Phil’s to engross ourselves in BBQ. The tip steak sandwich was good, and the baby back ribs flawless, from the tenderness, the fall off the bone all the way to the sauce. Our service was even excellent with a very helpful staff member making sure we had all we needed.

This is a BBQ house so do not expect fancy, quiet or gourmet. You are coming here to get dirty and filled full of smoky goodness. Just a good stop all around.

El Pescador Fish Market (La Jolla)
We got this idea for lunch from a top ten list of San Diego. Helpful staff did not make up for the dry fish tacos. While the chowder was quite tasty we will have to come back to try some sandwiches before we write this off our list of future visits. From the crowds we must have just had an off day.

Burger and Beers (El Centro, CA)
Mediocre food was served by a distracted waitress, not on my recommend list unless you must have a hard to find beer (like the Cooper’s Pale Ale I had to have). This is my second and last visit to the restaurant as the food quality is not in line with the pricing.

Manchester Grand Hyatt
We spent seven nights here, our second visit in the past 3 years. Where to start… First off this was for a small conference I organized, bringing team members from as far away as Cobar Australia. The event/catering/conference staff was excellent in their detail and planning. All the days we had exactly what we agree upon and needed. Instead of going into paragraph by paragraph of the minute details, let’s look at the good and the bad:

The Good:
– Perfect location for Gaslamp & the San Diego Convention Center
– Catering team are on the ball and look after you well (Sara Lacro)
– The Diamond/Platinum and Bell desk staff were excellent; accommodating and helpful.

The Mediocre:
– Rooms are not up to Grand Hyatt status. Good beds and average size but very small and below average quality bathrooms. Overall, a below average room when comparing it to Hyatts in Hong Kong, Seoul or even Vancouver. If this was just a Hyatt than I would not be mentioning it.
– Concierge staff was hit or miss on the basics, like making reservations. I never expect miracles, but a decent suggestion and the ability to book a reservation is par for the course the world over, it was challenging here.
– With such a large pool area, the pool itself is actually quite small, and with 700+ rooms can be over-crowded easily.

The Bad:
– Of the 30+ hotels I have stayed in this year this was the worst housekeeping service by far. From failing to refill basics to throwing hotel bathrobes onto our luggage it was well below average.
– Cost for quality, aka value.
– Hyatt Regency Room is the smallest I can remember on record, and with a full hotel for 2 of the 7 nights, it was full to capacity and beyond on the two visits. To have an executive lounge as small as that, for a hotel with two 30+ story towers of rooms, is atrocious.

Would I stay here again? It would depend on the rate for the room, but for $200+ I would not, for $150 I would.

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2008 Pedras do Monte

This is a mini review based on a tasting at Salt restaurant in Toronto.

A Portuguese red blend with a strong nose of oak and red fruit. Tannins were bold and there is no doubt this needs some more time. Despite the wine’s zeal it has good fruit, equal balance and good spiciness. For $8/glass it is Salt’s cheapest red by the glass and will not disappoint.

The CWG Subjective Rating is 84 out of 100.

Note: How wild is this world becoming? This is being published at 36,000′ going cross continent.

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Niagara Wine Week – Delayed

I am at 36,000′ currently and will be delayed getting out the final review (2010 Calamus Pinot Gris) for a few days. In the meantime I have a few short reviews that should pop up.

As I will be in San Diego for a conference for the week, I will do my best to get some tasting notes and mini reviews up as well.

-Canadian Wine Guy

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2007 Fielding Estate Meritage

A bit of a shorter write up tonight, apologies to Fielding Estates in advance but a busy Saturday and prep for a week away has eaten into my time to blog.

Fielding followed Angels Gate on the 6th day and it was also not the first visit to this vineyard. Fielding is nestled into Beamsville Bench, neighbour to both Angels Gate and Hidden Bench. Over the years we have had many Fielding experiences and all of them have led us back to the Bordeaux varietals and blends that Fielding seems to do best. As recently as two months ago we polished off a 2004 Meritage that was ready to drink and still had a great deal in the bottle to offer the average drinker, which is shocking for the weak 2004 reds from Niagara. As we have discussed price recently, it is important to note that Fielding is now in the top 5 for the highest prices for Niagara wines. Their high end reds consistently are near the top in price. While this may not matter to many of our readers, for some $60 for a bottle of red is a great deal of money. To put into consideration, Trius Grand Red and Château des Charmes Equuelus are considered cheap compared, and while the tasting is to follow, I am not personally sure the Fielding price properly reflects their quality versus their rivals. Anyways, so much for a short post, let’s move onto the tasting.

Knowing the wine from the tasting, we decanted this for a solid 45 minutes to allow it to open and soften as the bold 2007 year rears its head with this offering. A deep red, almost purple accompanies this wine and the nose is solid with red and purple fruits with hints of coffee. The first few sips shows you how heavy and solid this wine is. Having won a gold medal at the 2009 Canadian Wine Awards you have to wonder how or why, not quality wise, but simply this is a big wine and two years ago it would have been harsher. Good strong tannins with a long finish follow up my comments above and really drive home the thought that this wine has a solid 5 to 7 years to settle. It is a big wine. Despite the heaviness, the fruit and subtle hints are here and you will see caramel, coffee and spice complimenting the plum and dark cherry. This is a very good wine and if you have the wallet to purchase a few I highly recommend this as a great Niagara red.

The CWG Subjective Rating is 89 out of 100 with points deducted for the elevated price compared to its peers.

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2010 Angels Gate Pinot Gris

Angels Gate Winery is located on the Beamsville Bench, literally seconds/minutes from a handful of other vineyards recently reviewed (Hidden Bench, Tawse) or to be reviewed shortly (Fielding, Rosewood). Nestled midway up the Niagara Escarpment, the views as you drive in and walk around the property are fantastic. Green vineyards, blue skies, Lake Ontario in the distance, and on the day we visited you could make out Toronto, some 70 kms as the crow flies away. Within its beautiful main building is a good lunch option for anyone looking for a restaurant to complement their wine oriented day. We stayed for our Terrace Lunch and can easily recommend it to anyone.

So if you are keeping score so far, we have food and a view. What about the wine? Opened in 2002, Angels Gate is more than just a beautiful property; it is a producer of over 14,000 cases of wine a year and encompasses six vineyards as well as utilizing two premium grape growers. Grapes grown are: Chardonnay, Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Shiraz, Gamay, Viognier and lastly, Pinot Gris. It is the Pinot Gris that we will be talking about today, and amazingly enough this is one of three Pinot Gris wines that was recommended to me over the course of the Niagara Wine Week. Thought to be a mutant of the Pinot Noir grape, it gets its name from the conical shape of its grape bunches (pinot) and the grayish-blue (gris) colouring of its fruit. Our Italian friends call it Pinot Grigio and you are hard pressed to not find a Gris/Grigio on a retaurant patio during the summer months. If truth be told I am not a Pinot Gris fan, often it is pale, light and not much more, and the nice thing about this week has been the three Pinot Gris’ that have been almost forced onto me for trying and tasting. They opened my eyes slightly to the wine and I will ensure that I include having some from time to time just to keep an open mind. Let’s move on to the tasting.

A very pale wine, this clear glass brought forward pear and tropical fruit. As you pour a glass and get into the tasting you will realize that this wine has good acidity that balances well with understated fruit. Pineapple and grapefruit fight for your attention. As the wine warms and opens you will note more citrus (lime) on your palate yet it retains its crispness. This is a good example of a white wine that is crafted to consume now, the fruit is strong enough to give the mouth something to enjoy but not so that it takes away from the acidity and cleanliness of the wine. At $19.95 it should fit into most people’s budgets and should suit those who are fans of Gris/Griggio.

The CWG Subjective Rating is 85 out of 100.

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2008 Hidden Bench Felseck Vineyard Pinot Noir

I am rather shocked that I have never reviewed a single Hidden Bench wine before. If you were to ask me to name my top three wineries in Niagara at any given time, I can guarantee you that it would find itself on the list with consistent regularity. I like the care they put in, their attention to detail, the small nuances and of course I love their wine. I have yet to have a wine from them that I failed to enjoy. Why you may say “CWG you love all wine” and would not be far wrong, but I have often had bad/mediocre/overpriced wine and I simply try to never do it again. With Hidden Bench this has not been an issue. Located in the Beamsville Bench, the winery spends a great deal of time and effort to make ‘artisanal’ wines. Like the large movement towards ‘craft’ beers in the premium beer market, artisanal, or craftsman made wine is an ever increasing niche. As with craft beers, the effort and quality come with an elevated price. The winery is somewhat pricey when it comes to Niagara wines and is rather exclusive, as many of their wines are simply not available to non wine club members. All this is a better reason to make a regular trip to the vineyards and visit the tasting area, or better yet join the wine club.

With the scary parts over with (price and scarcity) we can concentrate on a few other interesting tidbits about Hidden Bench. The winery has three principle vineyards and Pinot Noir is one of, if not the most, the important grapes grown. The Felseck vineyard is where this wine comes from and has turned into Hidden Bench’s Pinot Noir superstar (at least in my opinion). 2008 was a difficult year for the region and it created an environment where producers had to work very hard to get good quality fruit with very low yields. Hidden Bench was no different, in fact from their product notes you can see how little fruit they got from the vines: “A meager 10-12 bunches per vine were left to hang in order to encourage ripening“. All that work helped them produce this stunner of a wine, let’s get into the tasting.

I choose to go without decanting, instead allow some time in Pinot glasses before jumping into the tasting. The colour was a nice dark red and the initial nose of plum and cherries was evident. The first few sips hinted at a firm amount of tannins and a long finish. As we got into the wine more, the fruit stayed consistent while a distinct earthiness reared its head. The tannins, while firm, do not overwhelm and the complexity is extremely evident. The finish improved over the course of the glass (and eventually two…) and my mouth was insistent on more. This is an extremely polished wine; it had the right balance of acidity, fruit, tannins and nose to make it a star in the 2008 Niagara Pinot Noir grouping. With the price ($48) and the rarity (few bottles left at the vineyard itself) you will reward yourself by making a trip, buying a few and letting some age for 3-5 years in the cellar. Overall an excellent wine.

The CWG Subjective Rating is 90 out of 100.

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2008 Ravine Vineyards Merlot

Last Friday we made our first ever visit to Ravine Vineyards. Nestled into the little community of St-David’s I have been aware of the winery for some time but had never made the effort to visit it. Why? I have no excuse or reason as I have driven past it on many occasions. Ravine would be considered a “newer” house in the Niagara wine world and is centered around one of the most significantly ancestral homes in the entire region. This accidental winery came into being as an effort to stem an urbanization of the St-David’s area, and I for one can say that we are better off for it. If you exclude the wines themselves, Ravine produces some of the best breads in the area and the bistro offers both lunch and dinner dining that are affordable and well crafted.

As for the wines themselves, the winery has 34 planted acres that are on the St-David’s bench with usual suspects planted. Being on the bench and the proclaimed hottest micro climate of the region leads to both issues in hot years and advantages in cold years (in relation to other local producers). The wine we are reviewing today is from the difficult 2008 growing year, one in which most vineyards found truly challenging. Of all the wines that were currently for sale, the one put forward to us by the staff was this Merlot. I am a little shocked as their botrytis influenced Riesling was very tasty and left good impressions on us, but I am pleased as it showed a great amount of confidence in the red wine from a rough year. With that we will jump to the tasting.

We decided to decant this just before drinking, as it was a 2008 I did not think it needed much time out of bottle but I felt it deserved a chance to open slightly before we consumed. The colour was a nice bright red and the initial nose brought forth red berries and tobacco. The first few sips introduced a lighter than expected red with smooth tannins and more ripe berries. The tobacco nose remained and the wine for it’s part proved consistent from start to finish. The wine neither dazzled, sadly, nor disappointed. It’s fruit expressed itself and the oaking made it presence known. Acidity seemed perfect and the balance overall was good. It is odd that I look at this wine as being “ho hum” as there was nothing negative to say and it is a good drink now (you could cellar for 1 to 3, but no more) Merlot which is a tad on the expensive side at $34. Ravine Vineyards will definitely get another visit and I look forward to trying their upcoming releases in the years to come.

The CWG Subjective Rating is 86 out of 100.

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2007 Château des Charmes Pinot Noir

After a long hard week of driving Gertrude, playing a few rounds of golf and visiting two wineries a day in the Niagara region I decided that Monday was a much needed rest day, and as such headed to the office and did not blog. Who would have thought that tasting wine and driving a classic Ferrari were such tiring activities? As I am starting to reflect back on the week, not the individual wines, I am finding that the week produced quite a few highlights and very few disappointments. All of which went to remind me how much the area has to offer and how nice it is to be a short hour to hour and half drive from it all. Speaking of experiences well on the positive side, it was Friday of last week that we headed over to St-David’s and visited both Ravine Vineyards and Château des Charmes, coming away from both experiences with great wine and memorable experiences. We will start with the Bosc family’s Pinot Noir.

Paul Bosc is a graduate from the University of Burgundy and has been one of the leader’s of the Canadian wine industry since the late ’70s. So why is it we never truly associate Château des Charmes with burgundy style wines despite his solid regional training/education? It could be that, for all the wines that the Bosc’s put forward, Equuleus and Gamay Droit remain the foremost in most people’s minds. Odd for sure, especially for someone so accomplished in the nuances that are the pesky Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes. The wine we are discussing comes from the vineyard named for the very man himself, the Paul Bosc Vineyard. If you are travelling to the Château along St-David’s Road you are actually moving along the dividing line that separates the St-David’s Bench from the Paul Bosc Vineyard not just on paper but soil, sediment and climate wise. Many years back you could easily see this evidence when the winery produced two single vineyard Cabernet Sauvignons and today it is demonstrated best when comparing their two current Chardonnay’s from each vineyard. If you every get a chance, I highly recommend this micro lesson in terroir by driving over and tasting both Chards side by side. Sadly there is no St-David’s Bench Pinot Noir to compare this wine to, if there had been I may have had a mental breakdown from excitement (yes I am easy to please). Before we go into the tasting, I’d like to thank both Glen for his excellent presentations and knowledge; and Michelle for setting up the tastings, you both made the experience exceptional and continue to make me want to come back. On to the tasting!

I decided not to decant the bottle at home as I remembered the bold, yet elegant, wine from the initial tasting being poured from a newly opened bottle. What came out was no different, a strong nose of pepper and black cherry presided over the deep ruby red colour. The first sips bring forward a mixture of plums, earthiness and red fruit. As you start to delve into the bottle more you will find hints of tobacco, more spice (again pepper came to mind) and bold red tree fruits. The tannins, while firm, are not overwhelming. The wine is well balanced from tip to finish and while the wine is drinking extremely well now I would expect this to continue to evolve over the next few years and produce a stunner come 2014-2016. Overall this is very much a Pinot Noir you can put against much higher priced Burgundy (or even Niagara) wines and it will hold it’s own. At $35 this is not inexpensive, but for the quality but it is priced low for other Niagara region top flight Pinot’s. It is difficult not to reward or upgrade the subjective rating based on the value and as such you will see a rating below that (as usual) demonstrates my view on quality, price and desirability.

The CWG Subjective Rating is 90 out of 100.

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2010 Strewn Terroir Riesling-Gewürztraminer

Strewn is a vineyard just on the outskirts of Niagara on the Lake (NotL), only a stone’s throw from Lake Ontario. Only a dozen years old now, it is a relatively young winery that is probably better known for its restaurant (La Cachette) than the winery itself. As a side note, if you are looking for a lunch spot in NotL make sure you drop by, the outdoor seating overlooks the vineyards and the staff mirrors the food, excellent. Strewn as a winery still represents one of the least expensive wine makers in NotL so for the budget minded it is an excellent place to go and taste their wines. We are going to talk about a wine from their Terroir range which comes from their best of the best, but they have two other levels which should work for those not wanting to put out the more expensive options.

The visit to the vineyard was a pleasant one with a lunch preceding tastings. I decided to forego tasting anything but the Terroir series and when it was all said and done the Riesling-Gewürztraminer was suggested as the review wine of choice. As the only blended white wine of the week (for review) it was a bold choice, not only for the fact that Strewn has several single varietals that could have been chosen, but also as the market for blended whites out of Niagara is not huge, especially not a higher priced offering. Yet here we are, so it must have made the cut for the Strewn staff. On to the tasting!

The pale coloured white wine instantly rears its Riesling head when you get a sniff, with a slight bit of petrol notes and crisp floral (think lilacs initially). The first few sips will bring forward a gentle acidity with distinctive but not overwhelming minerality. The fruit is gentle and compliments the structure well. The finish is long and you will start to get pineapple and peach notes the more you allow the wine to warm and open. Overall this is a good summer white wine with the potential to open a multi-course meal without leaving too much on the palate to take away from the food. A good offering from a young and often forgotten vineyard, at $17.95 you will find this wine is easy on the pocket book and will not embarrass you, not too bad for a sub $20 wine.

The CWG Subjective Rating is 84 out of 100.

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